Tuesday, January 22, 2013

From the Goat Town to the Big City

The flat countryside of Hungary is reminiscent of the Iowa cornfields we left two weeks ago today.  As we rode in our bus from the small goat town of Kecskemet to the capital city of Budapest, reminiscent visions of the midwest came and went, but any desire we may have had to return home was offset by the anxious exitement of being in a brand new place.  The metro area of Budapest is roughly 3.5 million people in total, although population of the city itself is closer to 2 million.  Still, this makes it the largest city in Hungary.  First settled by seven Hungarian tribes in the 9th century, the city has been in the hands of numerous peoples, both Asiatic and European.  For being considered one of the most beautiful cities in eastern Europe, Hungary has seen its share of violence and power changing hands from one group to the other, the most recent shift being that from the communist Soviet Union to becoming its own independent republic.  Originally, Budapest was 3 separate cities: Buda, Óbuda, and Pest, but in 1873 the 3 cities were unified into a single city named Budapest, on the east and west bank of the river Danube.  The east bank is the Pest bank, which is about twice as large as the Buda bank on the west side of the river.

Our first stop in Budapest was at a large square with a war memorial.  Built as a tribute to all those who had died in allegiance to Hungary, we found ourselves surrounded on one side by enormous statues of famous Hungarian kings, politicians, and war heroes.  The square itself featured a large pillar about 50 meters tall, near which a plaque was placed in the ground serving as the commemoration of the memorial.  This served as a somber reminder of the price of "independence," and it was interesting to hear our Hungarian tour guide speak with such reverence to their long, rich history. 

We arrived at our hotel, and after a brief orientation session, we decided to go as a group to a Hungarian bathhouse, which drew all of its hot water directly from one of the 80 geothermal springs in the area.  The design of the baths themselves was very baroque, with a great deal of ornamentation and elaborate detail, which really contributed to the historical feeling of our experience in the city.  Another thing that contributed to this historical aesthetic (although maybe not to the same extent) was the subwaz that we rode to the bathhouse.  The line 1, which we rode, was built in 1896, making it the second oldest subway line in the world.  Going through the stations was an incredible experience, as much of the decor has been preserved (refurbished, but kept in its original orientation).  All in all, not a bad first day in Budapest.  The historical significance and the cultural aesthetic of the city are sure to keep us enchanted in the days to come.

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